August 17, 2026 · 8 min read
How to speed up a Windows PC, setting by setting
The exact Windows settings worth changing, where to find each one, and what it actually does. Plus the ones commonly recommended that do nothing.
Windows accumulates. Software leaves background services behind, applications add themselves to startup without asking clearly, and defaults chosen for battery life quietly cap performance on a machine that has been plugged in for two years.
These are the settings worth changing, where to find them, and what each one actually does. Paths are for Windows 11; Windows 10 differs mostly in wording.
The two that matter most
Startup apps
Task Manager → Startup apps, or Settings → Apps → Startup.
Sort by startup impact. Every entry here holds memory from the moment you log in until you shut down, whether you use it that day or not. Disable chat clients, launchers, sync tools and updaters you recognise — they still open normally when you click them. Leave anything from your hardware vendor or Microsoft that you cannot identify; the gain is not worth breaking a trackpad driver.
Browser memory
Not a Windows setting, but on most machines the largest consumer on the list. A browser holding thirty tabs is thirty applications running at once, and the ones you have not looked at since last week cost exactly as much as the one you are reading.
Chrome can release a tab's memory while leaving the tab in place. Doing that to the heaviest few typically returns more than every other item on this page combined — how it works.
Windows settings worth changing
Power mode
Settings → System → Power & battery → Power mode.
On a desktop or a plugged-in laptop, set this to Best performance. The balanced default deliberately holds clock speeds back, which is correct on battery and pointless on mains.
Storage Sense
Settings → System → Storage.
Turn on Storage Sense to clear temporary files automatically, and use the breakdown on that page to find what is consuming the drive. You are aiming for at least 15% free. This replaces every third-party cleaner you have been offered.
Background app permissions
Settings → Apps → Installed apps, then the three-dot menu on an app → Advanced options → Background apps permissions.
Set apps you rarely use to Never. This stops them running when you have not opened them, which is different from disabling startup.
Visual effects
Settings → Accessibility → Visual effects, or search for “adjust the appearance and performance of Windows”.
Turning off animations and transparency helps noticeably on integrated graphics and older machines, and does almost nothing on a modern discrete GPU. Try it; keep it only if you feel the difference.
Sync clients
OneDrive, Dropbox and their equivalents read and write constantly. If a machine is slow specifically after login, pause syncing for ten minutes and see whether it changes. If it does, narrow which folders sync rather than disabling the client entirely.
Diagnose before spending
Task Manager → Performance is the page that tells you which upgrade is worth buying.
- Memory: if committed memory regularly exceeds what is installed, Windows is paging to disk and more RAM will transform the machine.
- Disk: sustained 100% active time during ordinary work points at a mechanical drive or a failing SSD. Replacing a spinning disk with an SSD is the biggest upgrade available to an older PC.
- CPU: if it is pinned with nothing running, find the process before you conclude the processor is too old.
Buying RAM for a disk problem is the most common expensive mistake in this category, and this page prevents it.
Commonly recommended, actually useless
- Registry cleaners. A large registry does not slow Windows down. The category exists to sell you something.
- Manual defragmentation. Windows handles this on a schedule, and it does not apply to SSDs.
- Driver updater tools. Windows Update and your hardware vendor's own utility cover this. Third-party updaters are a well-documented source of malware.
- Disabling the page file. This does not free memory, it removes the safety valve, and applications crash instead of slowing down.
- “RAM booster” apps. They force other applications to release cached memory, which those applications then immediately reload. Net effect is negative.
If it is still slow
Work through the four causes of a slow computer to identify which resource is actually short, or take the full checklist ordered by payoff. A Windows PC that boots from an SSD, has free disk space and is not swapping is a fast machine, more or less regardless of its age.
Common questions
- How do I make Windows run faster?
- Start with startup apps and browser memory, which are the two largest levers and both free. Then set the power mode to Best performance if you are plugged in, and make sure the drive has free space. Hardware comes last, once you know which resource is short.
- Is it safe to disable startup apps in Windows?
- Yes for applications you recognise — chat clients, sync tools, launchers. They start when you open them instead. Leave anything published by your hardware vendor or by Microsoft that you cannot identify.
- Does Windows need a defragmenter?
- No. Windows optimises drives automatically on a schedule, and defragmentation does not apply to SSDs at all. Manual defrag tools solve a problem Windows stopped having years ago.
- How much free disk space does Windows need?
- Aim for at least 15% free. Below roughly 10%, updates, the page file and temporary files start competing for room and the whole system slows down.
- Will more RAM speed up my Windows PC?
- Only if you are currently running out. Open Task Manager, go to Performance, and look at whether memory is committed well beyond what is installed. If it is not, spend the money elsewhere.